The innovation behind the Autumn Winter 18 collection lies in the play-off between clean functionality, forward-looking silhouettes and discerning fabric selections. The introduction of jersey and the new volume sweatshirts as well as the hand-knit feel to the knits brings down the formality of the long-line tailoring in fine Italian wool and crisp two-fold Italian shirting. An eclectic approach to styling is encouraged, putting together distinct garments in a real-life way. There is a softness to the pleat-front wool check tailored trousers with a relaxed fit, paired with the volume sweatshirt and the Columbo-referenced gabardine in Ventile.
The embedded side adjusters of the Boss suede-head slacks add a contrasting toughness, exposing the military infrastructure of the collection. This put together with the Calico Cuban shirt in a cupro viscose and wool composition juxtaposes masculinity with softness and ease. We’ve introduced a new flat-fronted trouser fit, Bill, in brushed cotton drill, which will become a continuity style. The collarless Mitz jacket, a minimal iteration of last season’s field jacket, acts as a key layering item.
Cultural reference points include the Rainman 50’s blouson in Moon thornproof and wool herringbone. Our heavy wool check developed especially with Moon in response to images of a scarf worn by Bowie during his time in Japan is used in a heavy volume overcoat. The Cork shirt in Prince of Wales grey check is a direct tribute to Ian Curtis.