For me, factory visits almost always kickstart the imagination. It's the so-called 'back end' of the industry that interests me, rather than the catwalks of Paris – I've had some of my best ideas under blaring strip lights, walking amongst the tinnitus inducing chorus of hundreds of sewing machines. Sometimes I think the nature of how things are made is almost as important as the finished product, which is why I felt compelled to photograph the inner workings of the Moonstar plant, which was a haven of brilliance, pride and calm.
Now I'm a lifelong lover of brown and beige in all their badass forms, be it wicker chairs, Ronseal varnish, chocolate, unbleached linen, cork tiles or the perfect crispy trench coat. So, when I stumbled across his work a few years ago on Instagram, it only took a quick scroll to confirm this guy had nailed all my favourite hues in his candid snaps of strangers on the streets of Buenos Aires.
To traverse the wonders of Egypt, a travel uniform is a necessity. You need a physical fortification from the charmed assault of Cairo. A flat shoe, sure, but a shirt that’s ever-ready for what the city has in store and grips your ribs as the winds whip up from the Sahara. Rolling dunes. A camel.
The exhibition promises to be ‘a mesmerising riot of sights and sounds’ and will bring together over 200 works from the artist’s five decade career. Highlights include his immersive, room-scale installation Sistine Chapel (1993) and much of his long collaboration with avant-garde cellist Charlotte Moorman.
One day a couple of years ago I was walking back to my home in London. I remember glancing down, locking eyes on a manhole cover. It was circular, smaller than most others and had a surprising graphic simplicity. In the middle it read “SE5” and around the edge, “YOU BEAUTY”.
Of all the hues in the colour wheel, there’s something eternally enticing about blue - each shade conveys a slightly different message. Our trusted navy, a staple in everyday closets, is understated and has enduring appeal; a true midnight navy shade is so dark it’s almost black. In contrast, cotton chambray in shades of light blue tend to feel fresh and springlike. But what about that brilliant hue of bright blue, the one that French artist Yves Klein fell in love with? That’s something else.
The Vans sneaker wearing teenage tearaway spends most of his time looking at jazz mags, skipping school or joyriding, but don’t let that put you off. Just like Reeves, he manages to stay close to the slacker vibe uniform, with long-sleeved jersey crewnecks, layered under polo shirts or tunics, all topped off with baggy pants and a beanie. Maybe it's all in the hair? I've always had a soft spot for pony-tailed ravers, or blokes who are still rocking that laissez-faire attitude to male grooming.
For Autumn/Winter 2019 Studio Nicholson has amplified and deconstructed the classics, bringing into sharp focus the emotional importance of how clothing can make us feel, subverting everything we know about size to create hardworking pieces that give the wearer a sensation of liberation and autonomy.