Nick Wakeman: “Fashion, interiors and architecture: I think they’re all the ultimate form of protection from the outside world. But they’re also about expression and identity – a world within a world that you get to be the author of. When we get dressed we assume an identity, or at least I do. Men, especially, get dressed with an idea in their head of who they are, whether that’s based on a film character, maybe, or a nostalgic version of themselves. I’m exactly the same, maybe because I’ve always worn menswear – men’s shirts, jackets and Levi’s are my staples.
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Blending timeless appeal with the kind of paired-back functionality you’d expect, Studio Nicholson is now launching the eagerly anticipated bag and accessories line. The unisex range for 2021 includes small and medium-sized leather goods, together with polished canvas options which have been developed over 12 months and road-tested to ensure they are built to withstand the demands of every lifestyle.
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Far from being a sloppy knitted security blanket, the cardigan has finally started to take centre stage in the layering stakes. For too long now, it’s been seen as the insulator of choice for fey, romantic types who reach for theirs in preparation for a night on the sofa with a good vintage paperback; but 2020 has shaken things up for everyone and given rise to a whole new dimension when it comes to ease and practicality. Our attitudes to dressing have morphed over the past year and suddenly we’re all putting comfort pretty high up on the agenda. This shift has been the perfect PR opportunity for the humble cardie, whose historical reference points span much further back than the first sightings of Morrissey flailing around with a bunch of wilting gladioli in a video for The Smiths.
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"Far from dishevelled and lazy, it was a look that radiated a certain readiness, an old-fashioned elegance. Those pyjamas were probably ironed with the same sense of pride and perfection as his shirts. And who can blame him? After almost a year of blurred boundaries between work and play, maybe we all need a little definition too? Don’t panic – I realise there are hordes of us who aren’t quite ready for the formality of power dressing just yet (I can’t be the only one who’s spent 2020 raiding the fridge) so rather than talk tailoring, I’m here to signal the launch of the much-anticipated Studio Nicholson sleepwear instead."
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There’s a lot to be said for dressing from the ground up. Get the foundations right and it should be smooth sailing – because shoes are, after all, the window to the soul. I grew up with the ‘shoes worth wearing, are worth repairing’ mantra, inherited from my late grandfather – who wore the same pair of well-loved and carefully looked-after brogues for almost half a century. What’s beautiful about this, is how those classic shoes transcended trends and always looked the part. Sure, good shoes cost more than your average sneakers, but buy cheaply and you’ll certainly buy twice; better instead to invest in a piece of footwear history.
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Political turbulence comes in waves and when the seas get stormy, it’s generally a good idea to keep your crew members close and batten down the hatches. With the forecast for Autumn Winter 20 looking decidedly choppy, there is comfort and serenity to be found by looking back to a time when carefree, youthful energy was the order of the day. Studio Nicholson founder and creative director Nick Wakeman explains how the new AW20 Collection is an ode to her formative years – the 1990s
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Every great outfit should be built from the trousers upwards. The shape, feel and proportion of your entire ensemble should flow naturally from the correct pair of strides. But for too many men, this has meant limited options and narrow perspectives, and a reluctance to embrace the full glory of a wider leg.
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British lambswool. What could be more sustainable? Extracting hardy fibres to make yarns for knitting is an ancient ritual that humans have been undertaking for centuries. Clipping the dense, winter coats from healthy flocks of sheep is all part of standard animal husbandry and by committing to buy wool from British farmers, Studio Nicholson are helping the crofting communities to thrive.
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The manufacturing side of the fashion industry exists, for the most part, behind closed doors. Garment production commonly takes place overseas, and it’s rare for a designer to have hands-on access to every part of the sampling and production process. Sometimes nuances are lost in translation – which isn’t surprising when you’re creating entire collections by email. Thankfully, this isn’t the case for Studio Nicholson, where provenance is key.
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Nick Wakeman thinks about clothing in the same way as most people consider architecture. She's never been one for fuss or flounce, preferring to concentrate instead on the dynamics of the human body, and how we inhabit the things we wear. The seams and structures she is careful to include in every garment aren't there to look pretty - they're the supporting beams that allow for playful movement and act as a framework for fluidity.
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